Hey everyone! Today is my birthday, so my boyfriend and I are heading to the beach to relax. In the meantime, enjoy the recap of our bike trip through Northern Spain!
Last time, I shared the first part of our two-month motorcycle trip through France. Now, we’re continuing our journey through Northern Spain on our way to Portugal. Here’s a rough outline of our itinerary.
As I mentioned last week, once we crossed into Spain, it felt like a totally new world. France has its charm, but it’s somewhat quiet and slow-paced, especially in the countryside where small villages are empty around midday and most shops are shut. In Spain, everything is lively. Village squares are bustling with people strolling, chatting, or enjoying ice cream. There are many small shops holding their own against the large supermarkets.
The Northern coast of Spain is stunning. Our first stop was San Sebastian, which has a lovely harbor and a vibrant nightlife. Then, we headed to Bilbao, the region’s largest city. Bilbao is renowned for its Guggenheim Museum, which was built around 15 years ago. The museum, situated by the river, has breathed new life into the city. The riverside promenade is filled with modern buildings and beautiful bridges, making it a great place to walk around. We enjoyed it so much that we even went back late at night and early the next morning.
In Bilbao, we needed to do some laundry and were pleasantly surprised to find a laundromat easily. This was a big change from our U.S. trip, where finding laundromats was almost impossible. In Europe, because many people live in small spaces, laundromats are quite common.
Leaving Bilbao, we drove along the breathtaking Northern coast of Spain through Asturias. The charming houses and elevated cellars, likely to protect harvests from rats, were fascinating. We decided to camp along the coast and found a small village with a secluded beach for our tent. We anticipated sharing the beach with pilgrims from El Camino, but it was just us under the bright moonlight with fishing boats lighting up the horizon.
Craving a good night’s sleep after a restless night, we reached Lugo, about an hour before Compostela, and found a comfortable place to stay. Although I had only booked and not prepaid, we accidentally left without paying. I quickly emailed the owner and sorted out the payment the next day. Lugo, with its well-preserved Roman walls and UNESCO Heritage status, was a delight to explore, especially by running or walking along the two-mile ancient walls.
Besides its historical significance, Northern Spain is famed for its gastronomy. We indulged in fabada asturiana, a hearty bean stew with chorizo, sausage, and black pudding, and enjoyed plenty of seafood accompanied by local wines.
Our journey then took us to Santiago de Compostela, the final stop for many El Camino pilgrims. The number of pilgrims walking around with stamped passports to prove their journey was impressive. We attended the pilgrim’s mass at the church of Compostela, which was an awe-inspiring experience, even though the reality fell a bit short of our high expectations.
From Santiago, we headed south to Vigo, a lively city with a revamped port and beautiful castle views. It was sunny, which brightened our spirits further.
COSTS RECAP
I’ll tally up our expenses once we’re home, but for now, we’re spending around 100 euros ($130) a day for two people. I’m covering the costs with my online earnings since my boyfriend funded last year’s European trip. My bike has a UK plate, and I got an affordable $100-a-year insurance policy that covers us for up to 90 days in Europe. If you’re planning a trip, make sure your vehicle is properly insured!
Accommodation costs in Spain were similar to France. Using booking.com, we found hotels costing around 30 euros per night. While we camped for free on the beach, we did splurge one night for about 50 euros on lodging. Our budget is roughly divided into a third for housing, a third for food, and a third for transportation and activities.
At lunch, you can find great deals on menú del día, typically costing between 5 and 10 euros for a multi-course meal with wine included. After such generous meals, it was tough to get back on the bike! For dinner, we usually snacked on fruit and small bites, and breakfast was often included with our hotel stays.
Gas is somewhat cheaper in Spain than in France, but we spent quite a bit on tolls, which balanced out the cost. And yes, at around $7 a gallon, it’s not cheap!
The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao costs 13 euros and is closed on Mondays. Visiting the main part of the Church of Santiago de Compostela is free, though additional areas and the museum have fees.
Given our long trip, we’re selective about visiting museums and attractions, focusing only on truly unique experiences.
THAT’S IT, NEXT, PORTUGAL!